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Newsletter:
March 2004 CHEMISTRY
AND TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE DYEING CHAPTER
1
OVERVIEW
OF TEXTILE
1.1
Definition of Textile Textile was originally a woven fabric, but the terms textile ant textiles
are now also applied to fibres, filaments and yarns, natural and
manufactured, and most products for which these are a principle raw
material. 1.
Threads cords, ropes and braids; 2.
Woven, Knitted and nonwoven, lace, nets, and embroidery; 3.
Hosiery, knitter, and made-up apparel; 4.
Household textiles, soft furnishings and upholstery; 5.
Carpets and other floor-coverings; 6.
Technical, industrial and engineering textile, including geotextiles
and medical textiles. Textile
materials are general term for fibres, yarn intermediates, yarn,
fabrics and products made from fabrics that retain more or less
completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of
the original fibre or filaments. Industrial
textiles are specially designed and engineered structures that
are used in products, process or services of mostly non-textile industries.
According to this definition, an industrial textile product can be used in
three different ways: 1.
An industrial textile can
be a component part of another product and directly contribute to the
strength, performance and other properties of that product, e.g. tire cord
fabric in tires. 2.
An industrial textile can
be used as a tool in a process to manufacture another product, e.g.
filtration textiles in food production, paper machine clothing in paper
manufacturing. 3.
An industrial product can
be used along to perform one of several specific functions, e.g. coated
fabrics used to cover stadiums. Another
indication of industrial textiles are that unlike ordinary textiles which
have been traditionally used by the consumer for clothing and furnishing,
industrial textiles are generally used by professionals from industries of
non-textile character in various high- performance or heavy duty
applications. The term “industries textile” is the widely used terms for
non-traditional textiles. Other terms used are “technical textile”,
“high performance textiles”, “high tech textiles”, “engineered
textiles”, “industrial fabrics” and “technical fabrics”. Fabric
is a manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns that
has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient
cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. Fabrics are
commonly woven or knitted, but the term includes assembles produced by
felting, lace-making, net-making, nonwoven process, and tufting. Cloth is a generic term embracing most textile fabrics, which are suitable for
clothing used. Cloth may be formed of any textile fibre, wire, or any other
material, and it includes any pliant fabric woven, knit, felted, needle,
sewn, or otherwise formed. This term was originally applied to wool cloth
suitable for clothing. Shirting
is means a cloth for shirt. Plain and fancy woven
fabrics used for shirting – broad cloth, poplin, oxford, etc. Usually are
mercerised cotton, glazed and preshrunk finishes. White shirting is a general British term for white finished
fabrics as long cloths, cambrics, muslins. Shirt-frill is a fine cambric
frill worn on shirt. Suiting
is a clothing material suitable for making suits.
Palm-beach fabric is originally cotton warp, mohair weft fabric use for
men’s suit. A light weight suiting fabric of mohair, rayon, or nylon in
plain weave, white, yarn or piece dyed for ready-to-wear cloth. Sheeting
is a medium-weight, closely woven, plain weave or 2/2
twill-weave fabric, made from yarns of medium linear density and used
primarily for bed coverings. Condenser-spun weft may be used. Typical
construction: ⑴
Plain weave: 25X23, 35X33 tex; K=14.8+13.2; ⑵ 2/2 Twill
weave: 24X28; 21X37; tex; K=11.0+17.0; ⑶ Plain weave: raised; 228X18; 30X9; tex; K= 15.3+ 5.4. Lining
Fabric is a fabric that is used to cover inner surfaces,
especially when the inner surface is of a different material than the outer.
May refer to garment lining, lining for boxes, etc. Generally made of
smooth, lustrous appearing fabrics, but also of felt and velvet. Both
manufactured fibres and natural fibres. Apparel is personal outfit, garments, clothing or attire, including headwear,
and footwear. This definition includes all apparel even if made of
non-fibrous materials. Some dictionaries imply the inclusion of other,
non-clothing habiliments and attached or carried accessories such as
jewellery, handbags or walking sticks within the definition of apparel. 1.2
Fibre Types and structure Fibre is a unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures. A fibre is characterized by have a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The term refers to units that can be spun into yarn or made and twisting. The essential requirements for fibres to be spun into yarn include a length at least 5mm, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and lustre. Natural
and manufactured fibres are the two major categories of fibres used for
manufacturing varies of textile. Natural fibres are derived from
sources in nature such as wool from sheep and cotton from cotton plants.
Cotton and other natural fibres such as silk and hemps have been extensively
used as textile raw materials may be as old as tradition textile dating back
to several thousand years ago. The invention of manufactured fibres between
the late 19th and early 20th century changed the
textile market forever. Development of manufactured fibres presented new
opportunities to special properties into the textile products, especial to
the industrial textile products. Today, most of the textile products are
made of manufactured fibres either regenerated or synthetic fibres. Manufactured
fibre consists of regenerated and synthetic fibre. Regenerated
fibre is a material which begins a natural fibre but at some stage in
the chemical processing take the form of another chemical compound, then
appears again in it completed state as the original fibre material. Synthetic
fibres are man-made fibres and are not found in nature. They have to be
prepared by chemical engineering processes through polymerisation, extrusion
and spinning method to form the fibres. Manufactured fibres can be used in
many shapes or forms. They can be in the long continuous form of filaments
or be chopped into shorter lengths in the form of staple fibres. Filaments
provide a smooth surface and high strength. Fibres can be made with
different diameters, cross-sectional shapes and a combination of different
polymeric materials in the form of hybrid or bi-component fibres. Staple
fibre is a
fibre of limited and relatively short length. The characteristic fibre
length of a staple fibre is usually estimated by subjective visual
assessment for natural fibres. The staple length of cotton corresponds very
closely to the modal or most frequent length of the fibres when measured in
a straightened condition. The staple length of wool is usually taken as the
length of the longer fibres in a hand-prepared tuft or ‘staple’ in its
naturally crimped and wavy condition. Natural staple fibres range in length
from a few millimeters in single filament (e.g. cotton linters), up to about
a meter (some bast fibres). The staple fibre less than 19mm (0.75 inch) long
are term as short-cut staple. Typically used in wet-laid nonwoven
processes to make fabrics, or as reinforcement in plastics, concrete,
asphalt, and other materials. The manufactured fibres can be composed of two-components during extrusion or in the spinning process. Biconstittuent
fibre is a
fibre extruded from a homogeneous mixture of two different polymers. Such
polymers combine the characteristics of the two polymers into a single fibre. Bilateral
fibres is a
fibres of two generic fibres or variants of the same generic fibre extruded
in a side-by-side relation. Composite
fibres (Bicomponent fibres) are
fibres composed of two or more polymer types in a sheath-core side-by-side
(bilateral) relation. Conjugate fibre is a two-component fibre with specific ability to crimp on hot or hot/wet treatment because of differential shrinkage. |
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